Saturday, August 19, 2017

Course 6. Fabric Art for Haute couture

Learn how to make your own decorative fabrics in a professional way.
More than 15 creative techniques.
Easy from the comfort of your home
Grow your fashion aims and quality.


Join now!

Classes starting 1st September 2017

Fees: 21.95 USD (paying by PayPal)

you can also pay by deposit in Indian account. Fees: 1650 inr. inbox me for details

Registration process: Pay your fees clicking in the PayPal button below, take a screenshot once your payment is complete. Send me the screenshot by inbox in Facebook to: including your mobile number with country code and email address. 
You need a Facebook account and WhatsApp in your mobile.

Tuesday, May 30, 2017

Course 5 Basic pattern making for men & boys

Welcome to the registration page for the course No. 5 of fashion design.
Basic pattern making for Men & Boys

*My experience: ~11 years of teaching in government institutions. ~15 years as a professional fashion designer, dress maker and tailor. ~5 years teaching online.
*All the content you will receive in the courses will be 100% original and  created especially for the class members by me.
*Theory and practical activities trough images, videos and text.
*Continuous personal assistance


* Measurements
* Pattern making for men & Boys introduction
* Measurement Charts for Boys
* Basic bodice patterns for boys
* Measurement charts for men
* Basic bodice patterns for men
* Shirt patterns for boy
* Cutting and stitching a boy´s shirt
* Shirt patterns for men
* Cutting and stitching a men´s shirt

Classes start 26 Jun 2017

Join now!!

Fees:   21.50 USD  Paying by paypal 
           1650 INR  Deposit in Indian bank account 



IMPORTANT: once you make your payment, send me a screenshot of the receipt, BY FACEBOOK inbox message, mentioning your email address and mobile number with country code, to:

Saturday, January 21, 2017

Online classes - Girls dresses

So happy to announce my next online course. How to make girls dresses.

Duration of the course: The minimum is  month but the classes will continue until we finish all projects and solve all doubts.

Days of class: from monday to thursday.
Contents of the course: the students will decide 5 designs to learn.
Continuous attention to doubts and personal work with every student.

Fees: 22.75 USD
           Paying by paypal only 19.95 USD
          Deposit in Indian bank account: About 1550 INR (depending on the exchange rates of the day, the equivalent to 22.75 USD)



IMPORTANT: once you make your payment, send me a screenshot of the receipt, BY FACEBOOK inbox message, mentioning your email address and mobile number with country code, to:


1. General knowledge about dress making for girls
2. Curved pannels dress
3. Ruffled party dress
4. Cascade ruffles dress
5. Bubble skirt dress
6. circular layers, curly hem and draped top dress
7. Drafts with instructions to make more than 10 different designs of dresses.

Tuesday, October 18, 2016

Cloud Factory 3rd Course online: Saree blouses

Welcome to the 3rd online course on Fashion design by Cloud Factory.
The first 2 courses we concentrated on pattern making, so this time we are ready to start stitching :D
The main topic of the course will be Saree blouses, but if you are interested in basics of stitching and garment fitting, this course is also for you.

Contents of the course:

  • Basic bodice patterns for blouse transformation.
  • Basics of stitching, the use of the machine
  • Basic saree blouse
  • Basic saree blouse with belt
  • Princess cut blouse
  • Katori blouse 
  • Double katori blouse
  • Halter neck blouse

Start learning now :D

Ebook with contents and video classes
cost: 20 usd (paypal) 1550 inr (deposit indian account)

To pay by paypal (recommended) send the amount to 
or click on this button:

then send me screenshot of the payment in  facebook (inbox)

contact me by facebook if you need to pay by transfer to indian account:

Saturday, July 09, 2016

Straight pants with elastic

Hello Clouds
Today i will explain you how to make straight pants with elastic. Not a tailored ones, since a lot of people is requesting me to make simpler pants patterns.
This project is perfect for beginners and you can use the same patterns to make a pajama, loose pants with drawstrings instead of elastic, or even attach belt and zipper or buttons if you gather the waistline.
These pants are perfect to be worn under kurtas, tunics, or  any long top.

Here you have the link to the video tutorial with all the process step by step, including the making of the patterns the cutting of the pieces and stitching.
just click on the image

And for reference, in this post i will show you the step by step to make the patterns, remember is always better to make patterns on paper so you can save it to make more garments.

So, lets start:


Start drawing a 90 degrees angle and mark the following:
NUMBER 1: (1/4 hips contour)+ 0.5" (why hips and no waist? because we need loosing to insert the elastic, and it must be slightly bigger than the hips so you wont be tight when put it on)
NUMBER 2: Crotch length ( For this pants no need to be exact because is usually low, so measure it directly on the body as shown in the picture below, is up to you where you want it, in the video i used 10" for the pants i made, just dont measure going inside, only straight vertical) and DONT INCLUDE the waistband,belt or elastic.

NUMBER 3: Pant length, from waist, downwards as much as you want,for long pants reach the ankle. But IMPORTANT: dont consider the waistband or belt or elastic here. we will add it later when cutting the fabric.

NUMBER 4: Trace a vertical line from the point 1
NUMBER 4a: Trace an horizontal line from the point 2 reaching the line 4
NUMBER 5: From the corner to the point 1,mark half of the segment and trace a vertical line to get the central line of your pant
NUMBERS 6 and 6´: From the point 3 trace an horizontal line. Decide the bottom width of your pant, (bottom leg width) and mark half of this measurement to every side of the central line. I wanted to be 8" so  i marked 4" to every side of the central line.

NUMBER 7: extend the line 4a to the left 1.5" and mark the point 7
NUMBER 8: trace the crotch curve as shown

Trace lines from 2 to 6´ , and from 7 to 6.
OPTIONAL: if you want your pant even more straight, trace the line 7 - 6 making a curve as shown.

And there you have the front pattern for your pants (red line in the right)


NUMBER 9: From the left corner, mark 3 cm in the horizontal (waistline)
NUMBER 10: From the point 9 mark 3 cm upwards.
NUMBER 11: From the point 7 ( crotch corner) mark 3 cm out, to the left,and then from this point mark 1 cm downwards.
RIGHT IMAGE: Join the point 11 and 10 tracing the crotch curve as shown.
From the point 10 trace a line passing on the right corner of the waistline and extend it to have the same measurement than the front waistline, then join with the hips point and continue tracing the contour of the pattern.
Add 1 cm extra in the inner leg line and in the side leg line also as shown.


To cut and stitch, follow the video tutorial mentioned above, or here you have the link also:

If you have any doubt tell me in a comment in this post.

Happy stitches ! 

Tuesday, June 28, 2016

Tailor / Notched Collar

A notched collar is known by this name because is made combining a lapel, and a collar, and in between both a notch is formed.

Using the same process, we can make almost any design of tailor collar, here some variations of it,notice the different widths and shapes of collars and lapels, also variations in the crossing area.

The final result of a basic one should be something like this:

Start with basic bodice patterns, if you dont have it, go to the FREE PATTERNS section of this blog and download the pattern No. 4 to find the instructions. Or use the patterns of the garment you are making, blouse, jacket, etc.

In This video, you have the complete tutorial, how to make the patterns step by step, how to cut and stitch:

click on the picture

And in case you need written instructions to trace your patterns here you have it :)

I will use the basic bodice patterns in this example, but you use the patterns of the blouse or any garment you are making.

Here: back and front
For the back patterns we will not make any change, for the front pattern proceed with the following steps:

* NUMBER 1 From the center line, add 1" (or as much as you want) for the crossing area. For buttons and buttonholes. 
How much it depends on your design, see these examples for comparison : 

* Mark the neckline depth, NUMBER 2 if you are not sure, measure it in your own, you can do it downwards from the base of the neck, or diagonally.

* NUMBER 3 Trace a line starting from the point 2 to the shoulder, touching the neckline curve as shown. 

 * NUMBER 4 extend the neckline curve in an horizontal line, as much as you want your lapel width, consider that in the garment you will fold the lapel out from the line, in this example i add 1" more and you can see in the picture above how it came out. 
* NUMBER 5 from the shoulder line upwards and in the line 3 we traced before, mark the back neckline length, measure it directly in the back pattern:
  And from that point, square a small line, mark half inch and trace a curve (optional) from that point to the shoulder line, touching the line 3.

* NUMBER 6 from the center point of the pattern (where the original neckline ends) trace an angle line, any angle you want, as open as you want,  here you are drawing the shape of the notch.
* NUMBER 7 in the line 6mark any bottom length you want for your collar, in this example i used 2.5"
* NUMBER 8 extend to the right the small line we made in the point number 5
* NUMBER 9 in the line 8 mark the top width you want for your collar, again, is up to you but here in my example i marked 3.5"

For reference in these points see the next picture:


 * Trace the contour of the collar, cut it and keep it apart.

 * Match the shoulders of your patterns and correct it make it them equal.

* Trace the back and front facing pieces as shown, transferring the shape of the patterns and keeping 2" width for both

These are the patterns for your notch collar, when cutting the fabric pieces:
* BACK: 1 piece in folded fabric
* FRONT: 2 pieces 
* UPPER-COLLAR: 1 piece in folded fabric
* UNDER-COLLAR: 2 pieces (cut on bias)
* BACK FACING: 1 piece in folded fabric
* FRONT FACING:  2 pieces  

The instructions to stitch it, you have in the video tutorials shared above, or here you have the link:

Happy stitches ! ^_^

Wednesday, May 11, 2016

How to take measurements

This is a long time request im getting all the time from my viewers, how to take measurements for pattern making seams to be a simple task, but some people still have some doubts about it, si i prepare a tutorial showing the proper way to take every body measurement.

The measurements can be divided in 3 categories:

Is the measurement around specific part of the body, such as waist, hips, bust, neck, etc.

* Widths and Lengths:
These are the measurements we take starting from one point to another in 2 dimensions, for example: leg length, arm length, shoulders width, etc.

*Auxiliary measures:
This measurements help us to make our patterns, using them as a direct reference to the body to be sure that the final garment will suits our body in a perfect way. Neckline length, armhole contour, armhole length etc.

Now lets see the tutorial:

Saturday, December 12, 2015

Basic Patterns for babies

Hello everyone, today im here to show you how i make my basic bodice patterns to make baby garments.
These patterns are made to fit girls and boys, you only need to adapt them when making the transformations for the final garment, for example, if you want to make a dress for a girl, use the full shape of the top patterns, if you want a t-shirt or a jacket for a baby boy then use the patterns considering the waist or the hips line.

To make your patterns you are going to need this measurements chart, is made with standard measurements so i recommend to make a muslin and check how it fits your baby and make adjustments if needed, or either you can make your own chart replacing the standard measurements with the actual measurements taken from your baby.

You can see the chart here or if you want to download it in full size, you can get it from the Free patterns section of this blog

here you have the video tutorial to trace the patterns, if you have any doubt let me a comment in this post.

Happy stitches for everyone ^_^


Sunday, May 11, 2014

¿How much fabric do I need?

How much fabric do i need to buy? ... is the question we often do when we prepare to make a garment. And most of the times we get fabric only guessing the approximate quantity we will use, which not always works since we end up by buying too many fabric or not enough.

To calculate the exact amount of fabric that you need, there are certain formulas and previous knowledge you need to know. Keep reading and i will explain you the proper way to calculate how much fabric you need and how to cut it to make the most of it :)

Previous Knowledge

There are some things you need to know about your fabric that will help you to plan everything as well as use the less amount of fabric as possible in order to get  the perfect garment.

Parts of the fabric:

Fabric grain refers to the way threads are arranged in the fabric, and depending on their direction or size we give them different names and use it as we need to get different effects on the final garment.

Lengthwise grain - fig. 1: we give this name to the side way of the fabric with longer threads (called also warp threads -  fig. 2 ), these are going continuously along the length of the piece as it comes from the bolt.
When you go to the fabric store and ask for 1 mt of fabric, they will measure it by this side.

Crosswise grain - fig. 1: side of the fabric piece which is perpendicular to the lenghtwise, is made up of shorter threads (called weft threads - fig. 2), and its length is considered the fabric width.
When you go to the fabric store and ask for some fabric, they open the bolt, measure the mts you want and cut along the crosswise grain to get your piece of fabric.

Selvages: are the limit edges of the fabric going along the lengthwise grain extreme. You can recognize it because these extremes of the fabric are very tight for a half-inch or so keeping the edges stable while fabric is on the bolt. fig. 1

Bias: direction of the fabric which is going at 45 degrees angle from the straight grains and it helps to get stretch cuts of fabric.
Fig. 1 ☝

Fig. 2 ☝ 
Green lines represent warp threads
Brown lines represent weft threads

 Fabric Width

Depending on the country where are made or the kind of material, and other factors, the fabrics come in diferent width, and you must ask in your fabric store how wide is the fabric you want before to buy it or calculate how much you need.
As we said, the width of the fabric is given by the lenght of the crosswise grain and we can find most frecuently are the following sizes:

  • 90 cm
  • 1.10 mts
  • 1. 20 mts
  • 1. 50 mts
  • 1. 80 mts
  • Doubble width ( more than 1.80 mts)

 But... why do you need to know all this?

Because doesn't matters how wide your fabric is, you must follow the lengthwise grain when cutting the pieces of your garment, otherwise the fabric will not fall properly once you wear it, and it will look twisted. Fig 3 .  

Only for specific purposes you can follow the bias or the crosswise grain. 
Follow the bias when you want to get stretch in your garment.
For some special effects with printed fabrics you can alternate the pieces cutting them in crosswise or lengthwise grain alternatively.
Fig. 3 ☝ 

Now you know all the basics, i will explain you how to calculate the ammount of fabric you need to get...

You will need to know 2 things: 
  • how wide you need the fabric to be
  • how much meters of fabric you need to get 
Knowing that you must follow the lengthwise grain while cutting, let´s take the following example. Pay atention to the measurements you need to know:
Once you know and make note of all information about your garment ( you must consider every piece such as body, sleeves, etc), use this formula to know how wide must be the fabric you get:

Fabric width you need= (widest part of your garment x 2) + 10 cm

For this example it would be: 

70 x 2 = 140
   140 + 10 = 150 
so i need my fabric to be at least 1.50 mts width.

Now lets see how much fabric you will need:

* If you find the fabric with the width you need (or is 1.50 mts or more width), then use this formula:

(Length of garment + sleeve length) + 20 cm

and place your patterns as shown below:

For our example:

85 + 50 = 135
   135 + 20 = 155
So i will need 1.55 mts of fabric

*When your fabric is  1.10 or 1.20 use this formula

 (length of garment x 2) + 20 cm

and place your patterns as shown below:

In this case our fabric is not enough to cut front and back body sides together as in the last example, but if we add the widest part of our garment and the total widht of the sleeve it will be enough to cut the sleeves and the body parts sides together as in the illustration.

So we have:

85 x 2= 170
  170 + 20 = 190
So i will need 1.90 mts of fabric

*When the fabric is 90 cm
 (length of garment x 2) + (sleeve length) + 30 cm 

For our example:

85 x 2 = 170
   170 + 50 = 220
   220 + 30 = 250
So i will need at least 2.50 mts of fabric

and place your patterns as shown below:

And that is all, now you know how to calculate the amount of fabric you need to get for your next sewing project, i recomend to round off the numbers, for example for the case 2 i would get 2 mts of fabric, for the case 3 i would get 2.50 mts.
If you have any doubt leave a comment or contact me on my fb page 

happy stitches for everyone <3